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When the Village Christmas Lights went out

The village where I live is in that part of France that was occupied by the Germans during World War 2, as opposed to the ‘other’ southern portion of France which was Vichy France.
The consequence of this was that there was a German Lieutenant and a section of Germans troops billeted in the village during the War. This gave the village population someone to fear and hate directly, as opposed to the French South where the resources of Police and manpower were put at the disposal of the Third Reich, so ‘They’ instead became the feared official force.
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Vets instead of Doctors? Why not?

Madame Françoise Tenenbaum, a deputy mayor of Dijon, has suggested that Vets could be drafted in to make up for a lack of Doctors in Rural Areas, “so that all Burgundians are guaranteed to have access to healthcare”.

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Spitfire over France

A couple of months ago I had an excuse to visit my grandson in the Alsace, so instead of dashing up the motorway from Burgundy we decided to take the scenic route. This meant starting off on the National Road and then diverting onto country roads in pursuit of the River Doubs.

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Last month I had to speak French, all week!

I have frequently said to my wife that the only way I will ever master the art of speaking French properly is to have an intimate affair with a French girlfriend.

This is a method that she is not keen on and for which I lack the time, energy and enthusiasm, although I have had a few interesting propositions along the way. Continue reading




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Getting a French Driving Licence

Yes I know… we all know…. We have to get a French Driving Licence if we are intending to stay in France, and we are supposed to do it within six months.

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The Perfumes and Pongs of France

Back in the 1950’s there was a move afoot by the more progressive advertising companies to introduce men’s perfume and deodorants onto the market.

My father, who was a medical doctor with a speciality in psychology, said to me, “If they want to sell these products, first they will have to convince these men that they stink!”

This did not seem to pose a problem in France. Continue reading




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Remembering some of the ‘Few’.

Well, the 8th of May has come around once again and so ‘Les Tricolores’ have been unfurled on all the monuments in the villages and towns, and preparations made for celebrating the end of the Second World War in France.

This has been one of those “come and go” celebrations in France where it was somewhat difficult to find sufficient veterans with genuine links to the Resistance to stand in front of the memorials while the National Anthem was played.

I say “come and go” because various politicians have had a hand in changing the dates and meanings of these celebrations in order to pander to different sectors of the community. Continue reading




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Fifteen kidnapped from French School!

Marlene has been teaching English in the French School System for several years. It has been challenging and interesting, and she has had contact with many hundreds of young French and foreign children from the surrounding villages and towns.

Until two years ago she was working for the French Academy, but in the last few years the number of English speaking assistants or “Intervenantes Extérieures” has been reduced in an economy drive which has seen the reduction of English lessons and the importance of English in the French education system.

I find this curious as, if it were not for the English Speaking Peoples of the World, the National language of France would have been German. But I suppose that memories are short and that the world moves on.

So now Marlene works as a “Formateur Vacataire” or as an “Animatrice en Langue Vivantes” depending at which school she working. This has involved jumping through many hoops and over many obstacles and the end result is that her children are learning to say “THe caT saT on THe maT” rather than “Zer Ca’ Sa’ on zer Ma’ ”.

Her pupils have all done so well when they move onto college compared to their peers that she has now been retained by a Private School that used to be a Catholic School but now seems to have only a small Catholic influence. Here she has 200 pupils each week that she has to manage in a mere two days. As you can imagine it is exhausting but she enjoys the teaching and the children, and knows and remembers them all.

For me it is also rewarding, because Marlene has 200 grandchildren with whom to interact, and I don’t have to remember a single name or a single birthday!

However, a month ago disaster struck.

Fifteen were kidnapped.

It happened during the lunch break which, for those of you who are not familiar with France, is a two hour suspension of activity during which food, wine and friends come before any National Catastrophe or Emergency.

It was a bitter blow.

These were all little friends who had participated in the classes of the children and had been active in their lessons. They all had names and sometimes were even allowed to “sleep over” with certain children who had performed well in class, or who had tried hard.

Teddy Bears

Of course, I must mention, they were Teddy Bears.

Marlene had collected them from “boot-sales” over the last several years and they were all friends. Some of them were from one family, as they were identical. Every time I saw a stranger in the house I would ask Marlene, “Where did this come from?”

She would reply, “Oh THAT one, I’ve had him for YEARS!” or “Oh, Janine gave me that one for my birthday!” or “I found him in the Attic!”

I couldn’t argue, because they all look the same to me. Like other peoples’ children.

The children at school are bereft. Now their little companions with whom they conversed in “Eengleesh” and learned to say “Ow R U?” are gone.

Of course there is a suspect.

His name is Dylan. He has been suspected of stealing sweets, pencils, toys and now Teddy Bears. He is also suspected of being involved with the theft of a mobile phone, which was found later, missing its Sim Card (whatever that is). The only Dillon I can think of is Marshall Dillon of Hollywood fame, so I don’t know who he is named after, but I suspect that he is training to be a future French Great Train Robber, or perhaps just a Politician or a Banker.

However, every cloud has a silver lining, so they say.

It means that Marlene now has a reason to go to all the local Flea Markets, or “Puces” to find replacement Teddy Bears.

Flea Market

There are almost always Teddy Bears on sale, from 50 centimes to sometimes a heady price of two euros. Marlene loves them all, even the ones with eyes dangling on their cheeks or ones with threadbare noses where they have been rubbed and worn out with love and cuddles. There are ones with cockeyed hats and buttonless waistcoats. It doesn’t matter, they will all be gathered in to the Teddy Bear basket, brought home and given love.

So now I am condemned to driving around with Marlene on Sunday mornings to local villages, with a mission. In the past I used to take her on the motorbike, in a vain attempt to limit her purchases, but that didn’t work, as by lunchtime we would be riding home balancing a hall mirror and a standard lamp on the pillion.

Later I tried limiting the purchases by using the little sports car, but that didn’t work either, because there was always something irresistible, like a Louis Fourteen hand-carved dining room chair with a tooled leather seat, a little fragile, but worth ten euros. Occasionally I have also been tempted by a wagon wheel or some antique tools for décor in the Old Forge.

So now it seems that I shall have to use the large car, perhaps with a trailer.

I wonder, do I need to get a special permit to transport Teddy Bears across “Frontières Départemental”?




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A lesson in trimming hedges and building walls the French way

I have been living in France for more years than I would like to admit, and I have often wondered why.

Obviously there was something that I had to learn, because the purpose of Life, so I am told, is to improve myself or to be “improved”.

This week I have understood one of the lessons that I am supposed to have learned during my sojourn here.

I am supposed to have learned how to trim a hedge!

You see, I suffer from that malady common to English Speaking People, in that I believe that Nature is beautiful when left alone and allowed to recreate itself, with freedom of expression.

I like my garden to have “wild” areas where birds can nest and red squirrels can scamper, or hedgehogs can lurk. But now I realise that I have been wrong for years.

The purpose of my life should have been to have a straighter, neater, more exactly cut hedge.

The precision hedge

The precision hedge

I am surprised that I have been allowed to live in this community for so long, without having a Mayoral Decree delivered, or at least a mumbled “word of advice” given, regarding my property perimeters.

And as for walls!

Here I am seriously at fault.

I had to repair a section of wall which was destroyed by raiders when they stole some heavy equipment from the Old Forge when the property was abandoned, before I bought it. As the old red bricks were lying everywhere in abundance I thought it would be fitting to build the wall in a slightly haphazard fashion, in keeping with the wild variety in the shapes and sizes of the bricks.

The haphazad wall

The haphazad wall

And, even worse, to build a flower bed along the top of the wall so that trailing plants could hang down and waft in the breeze.

Sacré Bleu!

Who ever heard of such a thing?

All walls must be dead straight and level on top, and must have roof tiles all correctly sloped like military bayonets at an Army Parade.

No… Now that I have realised my shortcomings I will be at pains to rectify this deplorable attitude that I have, and learn to trim my hedges with a theodolite, prune my roses with a power cutter and lop branches off my trees with a chainsaw.

I have to learn about this historical fascination for guillotining heads off things to create a new social order. I have to learn that destruction is beautiful. I must get used to straight carrots and geometrically perfect beans.

Yes, I know at last why I am here.

But perhaps… Perhaps…. I will wait until they make a wine bottle in the shape of a cube… then I will know that the curve is gone forever!

Oh dear… they have… Wine is now available in a cardboard box!

I wonder if the French Lady’s bra will suffer the same regimented fate and be made to look like the rear light of a Renault.

I do hope not.




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To Mourn a Nightingale.

April has to be one of my favourite months in the Bourgogne.

It is when the “beautiful days” start in earnest, when the Nightingales return and when the colsa is flowering.
It is when I do things that many people will regard as being rather strange, such as sitting outside at four thirty in the morning, with a tray of tea, listening to a dozen Nightingales singing their predawn territorial chorus from across the river in front of my house.

The river overflows its banks occasionally in March, and when it does it creates a huge private lake several kilometres across. The real value of this to me is that nobody is allowed to build any structures across the river with the result that we have a mixture of trees there that nobody has seen any value in chopping down. These trees provide a varied habitat for birds.
A Frenchman with a chain saw is a dangerous animal. He has a compulsion to pollard trees, or cut them down altogether in an ever futile quest for neatness and order. Nature abhors order imposed by man with his fetish for straight lines and regular plant spacing.
Nature enjoys a jumble.

So this little forgotten forest has tall trees for crows, spectacular trees for Orioles, broken trees with holes in their trunks for owls, dead branches for woodpeckers and dense bushes for Nightingales.
During the day the Blackbirds sing their sentences of verse, the Cuckoos call, the pigeons imitate a starter motor powered by a nearly flat battery and the Tits do their best with their “squeaky wheel” imitations.
But before the dawn it is the Nightingales who are on centre stage. Each one has a vast vocabulary and yet each one has a distinctive voice, so I find myself absorbed into their challenges and counter claims for territory and prowess in siring the next generation of international travellers. Occasionally an owl in my tall fir tree calls “Whooo” as though he is adjudicating the performance, but the choristers seem to ignore him.

This year their arrival was later than usual and I was alarmed that something had befallen them, rather like the Blackbird population which for some reason almost vanished a few years ago, but now has returned in force.
I am sad to report that one particular Nightingale had failed to return this year. He used to take up residence in a hedge nearby my house which borders on a deserted property. I have stood and admired his talent and repertoire on many a predawn walk, but this year his distinctive songs are absent.

It must be a sign of instability to mourn the loss of a bird that I have only glimpsed once in the last several years. In the far off days when I used to have a mobile phone, I recorded him and puzzled as to how I could use his song to be a ringing tone, but now that I have discarded that intrusive shackle of life, I have lost my only trace of his existence, apart from my memory of him.

Of course I don’t only spend April in a predawn admiration of the avian population; I also go around and about.

The MG near Bèze

The MG near Bèze

A delightful way to do this is in a sports car, particularly if it is a quiet one. I am fortunate to have a little MG and so yesterday we went on a tour through the French countryside to a picturesque village called Bèze which has developed around a spring of pure and copious water. This village is a photographer’s delight with old stone walls, a central church and notable restaurants, but for me the journey there and back, along good roads with meagre traffic, surrounded by fields of colsa in flower that is so much part of the pleasure of the outing.

Of course, along the way with the top down we could hear the skylarks singing, so we had to stop and admire their aerial performances. These tiny bundles of energy transmit their messages across the vast plains of new wheat germinating and emerging from the soil in that magical rejuvenation of life after winter that we accept as mundane, but without which we would all starve. They dipped and soared above our heads in a non-stop exhibition of love of life because, as each performer tired, so his place was taken by another.
The whole day was a visual and aural overload after the monochrome frosts and snows of winter, and yet made all the more enjoyable because of the contrast from the ice frosted forests of January.

And tomorrow?

I shall probably do it all again, in a different direction to discover another little paradise. A quiet riverbank, a forest glade, a chapel in the countryside, a walk with a view over the vineyards.
All in the undiscovered month of April.

Don’t tell anyone about Burgundy in April…. I would like to keep it a secret!




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