In the mild micro-climate of Brittany’s Morbihan Gulf, oysters have been cultivated for over a hundred years.

Oyster shells on the beach (click for larger image)

In the mild micro-climate of Brittany’s Morbihan Gulf, oysters have been cultivated for over a hundred years.

On a brilliant April day, I wandered with fascination along a small sandy beach at Locmariaquer on the western tip of the gulf, feeling the sea breeze, the sun on my face and the sand warm between my toes. The view of boats and small white-washed houses was pretty but my eyes were constantly drawn to the hundreds of oyster shells at my feet. They were scattered along the shoreline, resplendent in their sensuously curving shapes, their mottled, layered exteriors opening to reveal smooth pearlescent beauty.

The shells were of course empty – but I sampled their precious contents later at La Brigandine, a restaurant in nearby Carnac that oozed Gallic charm. The fat, luscious oysters were served on a bed of seaweed in a blue, boat-shaped dish and tasted superb.

Oyster farming started at Locmariaquer in 1882, with three generations of Bretons preparing and building up the oyster beds. The original, flat Belon oysters were destroyed by disease in the 1970s and now Pacific oysters are cultivated – but the Morbihan Gulf is still one of the world’s most important areas of production.