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  • Chauvet Cave replica of 36,000 year old cave – France’s biggest new attraction

    The Chauvet Cave in the Ardèche region of France contains the world's oldest and richest known cave paintings, dating back 36,000 years. Now, a perfect replica of this awe-inspiring cave is being opened to the public.

    La Caverne du Pont d’Arc opens on 25th April and is set to become a massive visitor attraction. Also on the vast hilltop site are a discovery centre, a permanent exhibition on prehistoric people and wall art, restaurants and shops.

    Gray Veredon, owner of La Mirande farmhouse luxury B&B near Privas and a qualified tour guide, has been to a preview of the centre and tells us:

    “Eight years seems like a long time to get this project finished but the challenges were enormous - from putting the budget together to finding the right site. The final choice is very typical of the local landscape and vegetation of the area, close to the actual cave and at about the same altitude.

    Tremendous respect has been shown for the forest that grows in this barren area, giving the impression that not one tree or bush was disturbed or damaged and that the pathways move around them.

    The construction was finished right on time and within budget, making it a unique phenomenon in the history of the construction of cultural buildings. The architecture has a beautiful simplicity of style that is very sympathetic to the landscape and bold use of stone and natural wood seems perfectly suited to housing this treasure of humanity.

    The actual cave is 8,000m2 and, for the replica, has been reduced to 3,000m2, incorporating all the major features. This works perfectly. I felt that the power and reality of the animals jolted me right back to the time when great artists worked on the walls of the cave.

    I was also impressed by the awareness of looking at an entire dramatic production. These were not just paintings of animals, but animals relating - running together and watching one another. Each hollow in the stone facade of the cave is used to express a dramatic statement in the story, with an animal seeming to hide from the others or resting after a long run.

    The replica clearly reveals that the cave is a place where rituals were acted out - the type of place that we don't find in our society any more. It was perhaps this ancient reality that had the most powerful and unexpected impact on me.

    I recommend the Pont d’Arc cave to anyone as a fascinating place to visit - and of course I’m thrilled to have it on the doorstep. Looking forward to sharing visits with guests at La Mirande!”

  • Discover the Ardèche for rivers, mountains, nature and culture

    Want to try a new part of France this year, away from the tourist hotspots but with plenty to do and see? Well, here's a hot tip - plan a visit to the Ardèche. You'll get a taste of the real France and discover one of the country's most varied regions.

    Where exactly is the Ardèche? Well it lies just south of the centre of France and has borders with  Languedoc,  the Auvergne and Provence in the south, where the weather is about as warm and sunny as Provence itself. The landscape is abundant with rivers, mountains and green forests so it's great country for walking, canoeing and communing with nature.

    But this is France, so life's little pleasures and sophistications are not forgotten! The capital town of Privas, for instance, is a gastronome's delight and also the epicentre of the marron glacé (candied chestnut) business. Throughout the department, there are cultural feasts and fun events galore this summer, from a balloon festival in June to chamber music in July, two or three arts festivals that combine the visual with the historic and a medieval pageant.

    Where can you stay? There's a surprisingly wide range of self-catering holiday rentals in this region, many of them oozing local character with stone and timber and most in lovely country locations close to towns and villages. You'll find anything from a country cottage or gite for couples and small families to all or part of an elegant chateau with traditional features so typical of France.

    Find holiday accommodation in the Ardèche

  • New competition winner excited about a week's holiday in the Ardeche

    Our latest competition was held with Third Age Matters, the magazine of the University of the Third Age, and Denise Roberts of Northumberland is the delighted winner.

    Denise's prize is a week's stay at the beautiful holiday cottage at La Mirande, a converted farmhouse in a stunning, peaceful location in the Ardeche with views to both the Alps and the Massif Central.

    Denise takes a French conversation class, so can't wait to share her delight at being the winner with her group – and practising her language skills. “My husband and I know and love the Ardeche, having visited some years ago, when hardly anyone knew about the area. We are thrilled at the prospect of returning.”

    The University of the Third Age (U3A) movement is an unique and exciting organisation which provides, through local groups, life-enhancing and life-changing opportunities. Retired and semi-retired people come together and learn together, not for qualifications but for its own reward: the sheer joy of discovery!    

    The magazine Third Age Matters is published five times each year and contains opinion, events and local news from U3As up and down the country.

    La Mirande combines luxury and contemporary colour with dramatic timber and stone period features. As well as the self-contained cottage, it offers two large B&B suites with table d'hote. See more about La Mirande cottage and B&B

  • Our Ardèche competition winner is thrilled!

    A week at La Mirande farmhouse cottage in the beautiful Ardèche was the prize in a recent competition that we ran together with French Entrée magazine.

    The winner, Lyn West, is from Woodford Green in London and her reaction was first disbelief then great excitement:

    “I’m absolutely thrilled and over the moon to have received a phone call this morning from French Connections letting me know I am the winner of their recent  competition for a week’s stay at La Mirande in the Ardèche. This is a trip made for us. My husband instantly relaxes as soon as he arrives in France.

    “Having never visited the region before we are so looking forward to exploring its history, beauty & charm.  Visits to Gorge de l’Ardèche, the Roman Pont du Gard and  Arles look to be a must for us alongside many visits I'm sure to the local town of Privas.”
    Also included in the prize is a welcome dinner cooked by friendly owner Gray Veredon, accompanied by local wines and cheese from the neighbouring farm. Gray, a former director of ballet at Lyon, now offers bed and breakfast in the stylish farmhouse along with optional evening meals. Our photo shows the view from the garden across to the Alps.

  • The amazing story of the Chauvet-Pont d'Arc cave - episode one

    In 1994 in the Ardèche region of France, Jean-Marie Chauvet and two friends explored an almost inaccessible cave close to the immense natural stone bridge of the Pont d’Arc. Here they made dramatic discoveries of paintings, engravings, and prints that had been forgotten for thousands of years.

    Lit by the beam from a head-torch, lines of animals loomed out of shadows across the limestone walls of the cave – lions and bears, mammoths, bison and horses, all woven together across the fissures of the rock along with mysterious geometric symbols. And, immortalised in the clay, prints of human hands and feet provided a spiritual link to those ancient artists.

    2 Ardeche cliffsThe discovery of the Chauvet Pont-d’Arc cave astonished the worlds of both archaeology and art history, not just because of its amazing animal paintings (425 individual animals from 14 species) but also for their quality, the techniques used and their immense age.  The style is almost reminiscent of Picasso - spare, simple, but loaded with feeling and meaning. Inevitably it makes us wonder about the skill and sophistication of our European ancestors, who were capable of imagination and activity way beyond what was necessary for mere survival.

    Most of the paintings date to around 32,000 years ago, to the Ice Age and Paleolithic Aurignacian man - homo sapiens sapiens – who had essentially the same brains and DNA as ourselves.

    But some of the images which adorn the cave walls were painted 36,000 years ago – a figure that’s hard to get your head around till you realise that as much time has passed between us and the prehistoric paintings in Lascaux as evolved between Chauvet and Lascaux – a staggering 18,000 years each.

    Carbon dating has revealed that the Chauvet-Pont d’Arc cave was itself in use for around ten thousand years, until an earthquake caused falling rock to seal off its entrance almost completely. It is still hard to access, located close to the top of a limestone cliff in the timeless area of the Pont d’Arc bridge over the Ardeche river.

    1 Pont d'ArcBut this cave is important – it speaks to us of what it means to be human and may oblige us to reconsider our perceptions. Recognising that, the French government and Ardèche authorities are in the process of building a replica of the cave, where visitors can experience the temperature, atmosphere and the art itself. Archaeologists describe the cave as like a cathedral and everyone who enters it reports a feeling of being in a powerfully spiritual place. The cave was never lived in, it was clearly a centre for ritual and creative expression, so the plan is to allow visitors to experience that sense of awe and mystery.

    The replica is part of a major visitor centre that will open in June 2015. In March this year I had the privilege of a preview of the site and I was really impressed – especially by the location, artistry and environmental sustainability of the scheme. Here I share an image of work in progress meticulously recreating the cave structure using metal frames, wire, plastic mesh and cement.

    4 Work on cave replica

    The French government has applied for UNESCO World Heritage status for the Chauvet-Pont d’Arc cave replica and a decision will be made very soon.

    Meanwhile, if you’re visiting the region this summer, take a trip to the village of Vallon Pont d’Arc, where you can visit a small museum close to the square, devoted to the cave. This was created soon after the cave’s discovery and, although quite small, it gives you good information, images and a fascinating video.

    Next month I’ll post an update on the UNESCO decision, all the latest information and more about the cave and its art.

    3 Cave replica site


  • The amazing story of the Chauvet-Pont d’Arc cave – episode two

    Big news! The prehistoric Chauvet cave in the Ardèche region of France has been granted World Heritage status by the United Nations cultural agency UNESCO. At a recent gathering in Doha the delegates at UNESCO's World Heritage Committee voted to grant the status to the Grotte Chauvet after considering cultural and natural wonders for inclusion on the UN list.

    UNESCO said the Grotte Chauvet 'contains the earliest and best-preserved expressions of artistic creation of the Aurignacian people, which are also the earliest known figurative drawings in the world'.

    The cave itself is hard to access and now sealed to all but archaeologists as a conservation measure but, as I explained last month, a near perfect replica is currently under construction.  I am in the Ardeche as I write, enjoying the rivers, rock cliffs and forests and taking in panoramic views across the Coiron plateau to the Alps from the beautiful La Mirande farmhouse. I had hoped to visit the replica site once more, to see progress. But the site is now closed for two months to all visitors while work is carried out involving heavy machinery.

    Ardeche river gorges

    Never mind, I had a really complete guided tour back in March and this project is even more exciting now the UNESCO World Heritage status has been granted to the cave itself. The organisers of the replica project are hoping for 300,000 to 400,000 visitors from around the world each year when it is open to the public next June.

    The nearby Pont du Gard, a well preserved Roman aqueduct across the Rhone river, is a good example of the impact that this status bestows. Around ten years ago, there was a steady trickle of visitors but after it was given a UNESCO decree, tourism really built up and even in March this year I saw around a dozen coaches in the parking area. In summer, it is heaving.

    The Chauvet Cave replica project promises even more to see. The Razal site, on the hills of the Vallon-Pont-d'Arc, seven kilometres from the actual cave, is the location for the replica, the biggest perfect replica of a prehistoric site in Europe. Set within a vast wooded area covering 29 hectares, the site will include (alongside the replica cave) a discovery centre and a permanent exhibition dedicated to the Aurignacians and wall art, as well as five sheltered interpretation stations, a temporary exhibition space, an educational area for young people, an events centre, shops, cafes and restaurants.

    Chauvet site works

    The project is funded by the EU, the French government and the Ardèche regional authority. I was really impressed by the fact that almost all the work involved is being carried out by local companies and craftspeople, most from the Ardeche. Also impressive is the environmental and ecological sensitivity of both the building designs, which will blend into the landscape with their living ‘green’ roofs, and the site works, using stone already on site to make paths and retaining every possible tree and shrub.

    More next month about the paintings and how they are being recreated. Meanwhile, to plan your visit, take a look at accommodation in our guide to the Ardèche.

  • The Chauvet Cave story, part 3: Exactly where is this amazing cave?

    While I was in the Ardèche last month, I set out on a mission to find the actual location of the remarkable Chauvet Cave, with its 36,000 year old paintings. I wanted to know how it felt to be in the very spot where our Ice Age ancestors created remarkable art with such inspired creativity, to feel what was special about this place.

    The Ardèche department is part of the Rhone-Alpes region and lies in south east France, roughly between the cities of Lyon to the north and Avignon to the south. Its own capital is Privas, a market town set amidst dramatic scenery of hills, forests, farms, vineyards and rivers that really typify the whole, sparsely populated area.

  • We're in The Times top holidays in France

    The Times newspaper has chosen its top holidays in France for 2014 and among the 'Best for Culture' is a holiday offered through French Connections in the Ardèche. At La Mirande, a stylish converted farmhouse near Rochessauve, property owner Gray Veredon, is offering an innovative all-inclusive culture break, which includes transfers from Valence railway station, accommodation, escorted visits and gourmet meals with wine.

    Gray VeredonGray is a top choreographer and originally went to France as director of ballet at Lyons. He bought La Mirande as a weekend escape set in peaceful rural seclusion and, after a career that included working with David Hockney as set designer, he became a professional tour guide and now lives full-time in his beloved Ardèche.

    Southern France is of course rich in wine, food, culture and glorious countryside and the culture break includes accommodation in theatrically designed, luxuriously furnished suites, guided visits to cultural events and locations and home-cooked meals each evening. The farmhouse retains period features with artistic interiors and there is accommodation for just six, so guests can  travel as couples or a small group.

    Guests influence the choice of each day’s destinations and activities, which include shopping at the market for a cookery session and outings to vineyards, lavender fields, Roman sites, ceramic works and music festivals. Also at La Mirande is a self-catering cottage for visitors who prefer a more independent break.

    Read more about holiday options at La Mirande